A man’s facial skin takes a lot of abuse due to the need for frequent shaving. It’s been said that a man shaves his face and neck over 20,000 times during the course of a lifetime, and how he does this makes all the difference in the quality and appearance of his skin. Using a razor without proper preparation and lubrication can lead to razor burn and ingrown hairs –a common problem for many men.

Here are some tips for a cleaner closer shave and healthier skin:

1. Always shave during or after a hot shower, never before. Use hot water when you shave as it softens facial hair, opens pores, and cleanses the skin.
2. Use a moisturizing oil or blend of oils like coconut, jojoba, olive, high-oleic safflower or sunflower to protect and lubricate the skin prior to shaving. Rub a small amount in the palms of your hand and massage upwards into your beard to soften the hairs and ensure a protective coat is applied to the skin. The oil provides a thin layer of protection to the skin and allows the blade to glide more easily without removing or damaging too much of it –a leading cause of irritation and razor burn.
3. Use a razor with 3 blades and a swivel head and start by shaving with the grain (meaning the same direction that the whiskers grown in). This minimizes the risk of scratching the skin, which typically happens when shaving against the grain. Be aware of the pressure you’re exerting and use a light stroke. Check to see if hair on your neck grows in the same direction as the hair on your face, otherwise change the direction of the blade to go with the grain.
4. Lather up with a shaving brush made from soft natural bristles and a shaving cream made with lubricants like glycerin, and essential oils like tea tree, eucalyptus, lavender or clove whose antiseptic and healing properties can prevent irritation and speed up healing of nicks and cuts. You can also use a natural liquid soap or body wash in a foaming dispenser to create a nice lather.
5. Change your blade every 3-5 uses –more often if you have a coarse beard. For an extra-close shave, make sure you re-lather after your first pass, and then shave lightly against the grain. Doing this without lathering can irritate and damage your skin.
6. Use a moisturizer that’s hydrating and rich in antioxidants. This can be a cream or lotion made from plant oils like extra virgin olive (EVOO), virgin coconut, grape seed, golden jojoba, or a combination of these oils. Products that contain herbal extracts or infusions like calendula, chamomile, mallow root, and comfrey can speed cell regeneration and healing in addition to protecting the skin.
7. Avoid products, especially aftershaves, made with alcohol, perfumes, synthetic fragrances or dyes as these can dry out the skin, or irritate it even more. Try a hydrosol, aromatherapy mister (especially one made with a hydrosol), or herbal toner made with witch hazel or cucumber extract.

Most men tend to look at skin care or body care as the exclusive domain of women. Maybe they just don’t have the patience to sort through the dizzying array of skin care and facial products and decipher which would work best for their special skin care needs.

A man’s skin care revolves around a daily shaving routine, which poses its own set of unique challenges. His skin is also a lot thicker and oilier than a woman’s. Daily cleansing with a gentle, moisturizing liquid castile-based or super-fatted bar soap (i.e. one that is rich in moisturizers like Shea or Cocoa butter) followed by a gentle exfoliating scrub will go a long way towards keeping pores clean and facilitating the shave –one of the primary sources of irritation and skin problems for men.

Most men who shave regularly use some type of after shave to tone skin and tighten pores, but most of these products are alcohol-based which further irritates and ultimately dries out the skin rather than soothing it and re-balancing its pH.

Here’s a simple recipe for a natural astringent toner that makes for a soothing after shave splash or spritz:

Natural Aftershave & Toner for Men

Ingredients: (for a 4 ounce bottle)

• 60 ML (2 ounces or 4 tablespoons) of Witch Hazel Extract
• 28 ML (just under 1 ounce or 1 ¾ tablespoons) each  & Lavender Peppermint Hydrosol
• 3 ML (approximately 60-90 drops or ¾ of a teaspoon) Lavender Essential Oil

Supplies:

• 4 oz amber or blue glass bottle with spray top
• Glass dropper
• Shot glass or measuring spoon
• Small funnel

Directions:

1. Measure liquids and pour into bottle with a funnel
2. Measure and pour essential oil or use dropper to add to mixture. A typical glass dropper holds about 20 drops of liquid depending on the size of the dropper and viscosity of the liquid. Fill the dropper 3-4 times and release into the mixture.
3. Put the spray top on and gently shake the bottle to mix the ingredients then spray, or use a cap and splash the mixture onto your face.

Avoid commercial Witch Hazel extract, which tends to be more alcohol than Witch Hazel. You can find one with a low alcohol content from a variety of online natural ingredient suppliers. We like Mountain Rose Herbs’ Witch Hazel extract –double-distilled and contains only 14% grain alcohol. You can also find a variety of hydrosols at their site.

This recipe calls for Lavender hydrosol because of its wonderful skin soothing properties and Peppermint hydrosol to add a cooling and refreshing hint of mint. You can experiment with different hydrosols (Chamomile and Calendula are also excellent skin toners).

If you are adventurous and like making concoctions, you can make an herbal infusion of Calendula or Lavender by filling a clean jar with one or the other dried herbs (which can also be purchased at Mountain Rose) then pouring Witch Hazel into the jar until the herbs are completely soaked and immersed. Place the jar on a windowsill where there is some direct sunlight and let it soak for a week or two. Then strain the liquid using a coffee filter or fine mesh strainer and use it in the recipe above.

Women, you can use this as a toner too though you might prefer a Rose or Rose Geranium hydrosol in place of the Peppermint and use 60 drops of Lavender EO and 30 drops of Geranium EO.

Remember to keep your finished toner (as well as the ingredients) in a cool dark place to maximize their shelf-life and effectiveness!